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Virginia
Places to Eat
Exit 78: Italian food in Richmond? Absolutely, says reader Kate Schwarz of Fairfax, who raves about the cooking at Julian's (2617 W. Broad St., about five minutes from I-95, 804-359-0605).
Exit 92: For fresh seafood and pulled pork, try the Houndstooth Cafe (13271 Hanover Courthouse Rd., Hanover, about six miles from I-95, 804-537-5404).
Exit 92: Reader Buzz Hawley of Falls Church recommends the Smoky Pig Restaurant in Ashland (212 S. Washington Hwy., less than a mile from I-95, 804-798-4590) as "one of the best barbecue joints in Virginia."
Exit 104: Reader Bryant Tucker of Landover Hills says Aunt Sarah's Pancake House (23496 Welcome Way Dr., Carmel Church, about 1/4 mile from I-95, 804-448-3660) has real down-home cooking and a famiy atmosphere.
Outlets
Exit 158B: Potomac Mills Mall. Need we say more?
Exit 104: Check out the Russell Stover chocolate outlet (on Highway 301, about two miles north of the exit). There are a few off I-95, with free samples and discount goodies.
Attractions & Distractions
Exit 83B: The Lewis Ginter Botanical Garden (1800 Lakeside Ave., Richmond, about two miles south of I-95, 804-262-9887), an outdoor garden with a pond harboring some alarmingly large goldfish, has a children's area, restaurant and gift shop. Admission: $4.
Exit 74C: The Museum of the Confederacy (1201 E. Clay St., Richmond, five minutes from I-95, 804-649-1861) claims "the world's most comprehensive collection of Confederate artifacts." Admission: $8.
Exit 61A: For more Civil War history, detour to Hopewell's Appomattox Manor (Brown and Pecan streets, about five miles from I-95, 804-541-2461). Picnic at City Point Park, site of the largest supply base built during the Civil War.
Exit 48A: Less than a mile from I-95 is the Softball Hall of Fame (3935 S. Crater Rd., Petersburg, 804-733-1005), where you can see tributes to the sport's legends, such as Janet Louise Deters, who "took great pride in advancing runners" (the display case contains her knee brace). Admission: $2.
Stopover Towns
Exit 130A: Historic Fredericksburg (Route 3 east, follow signs, about 10 minutes from I-95) combines a healthy dose of Colonial and Civil War history with Main Street Americana and the collegiate atmosphere of Mary Washington College. Pleasant, tree-lined Caroline Street and surrounding blocks house coffee shops, cafes, antiques stores, taverns and more. Numerous historical landmarks include George Washington's boyhood home. The old train station is now an excellent high-dollar restaurant, Claiborne's Chop House (200 Lafayette Blvd.). Information: 1-800-678-4748, http://www.fredericksburgva.com.
Exit 52: Petersburg, with everything from Civil War memorials to 7-Elevens and ATMs, is ideal for a quick gas and food refueling or an overnight. See story, Page E5.
Construction
In Richmond, the Belvedere Street ramps onto I-95 south are closed. At Exit 69, work reduces the interstate to two lanes in each direction. Between Exits 75 and 76 northbound, the right shoulder is closed. South of Richmond at Chippingham Parkway, I-95 northbound is reduced to two lanes; other work on some overpasses closes lanes in both directions (but not at all times). Also, at Exit 58, there's work during off-peak hours. Between Exits 4 and 11, near the North Carolina border, the interstate is one lane in each direction, which can mean delays. Call 1-800-367-7623 for up-to-date information.
North Carolina
Places to Eat
Exit 176: Ralph's BBQ looks tacky but offers a no-frills, kick-butt barbecue-and-more buffet. See story, Page E8.
Exit 173: Ryan's Steak House (1500 Julian Allsbrook Hwy., Roanoke Rapids, two blocks from I-95, 252-535-4266) has great food and prices in a clean setting.
Attractions & Distractions
Exit 176: Lake Gaston (on the North Carolina-Virginia border, 30 minutes from I-95, 252-586-5711) has boat rentals, fishing, water skiing and swimming.
Exit 168: Historic Halifax (about five minutes from I-95; follow signs, 1-800-522-4282) has a historic county jail, plantation dwellings and more.
Exit 116: If you want the kids to have something new to talk about for a few miles, bring them to Imagination Station science museum (224 E. Nash St., Wilson, about eight miles from I-95, 252-291-5113), with exhibits on electricity, sound, physics and more. Admission: $3.50.
Exit 107: At the Tobacco Farm Life Museum (1 miles from I-95, on Highway 301 north in Kenly, 919-284-3431), you will learn that cotton (not tobacco) made more money for more people than any crop in North Carolina history. With craftmaking and seasonal activities. Admission: $2 adults, $1 children.
Or pull off the road and watch someone else do the driving at Southern National Speedway (8071 Newsome Mill Rd., Kenly, about five miles from I-95, 919-284-1114). Stock car races Saturday nights from April through September. Admission: $12.
Exit 95: Reader Mark Dreyer of Sterling points us to Stone's Parent and Teacher Store (1035 Industrial Park Dr., Smithfield, minutes from I-95, 919-938-2512) for "boredom busters" for kids.
Exit 90: Another Civil War landmark: the 6,000-acre Bentonville Battlefield (15 minutes from I-95; take Route 701 south for 12 miles, then left on Harper House Road to site, 910-594-0789). The battlefield was the site of the last major Confederate offensive. Not recommended for a quick hit, due to distance from interstate.
Exit 73: Aviation connoisseurs should hit the Gen. William C. Lee Airborne Museum (290 W. Divine St., Dunn, about a mile from I-95, 910-892-1947) to learn about the Dunn native credited as Father of the Airborne. $1 donation.
Exit 40: Cypress Lakes Championship Golf Course (on Country Club Road outside of Hope Mills, about 3 miles from I-95; follow signs from exit, 910-483-0359) has fast greens, a snack bar and showers. Reservations recommended.
Outlets & Shopping
Exit 168: Independence Station Association of Artisans (18 King St., five miles from I-95, 252-583-2278) in Historic Halifax showcases artists and their tinware, porcelain, baskets, furniture, pottery, etc. Closed Sunday and Monday.
Exits 93-97: There's a mother lode of outlet shopping in Smithfield and Selma, starting with JR's outlet stores (919-202-0777), an enterprise with a billboard saturation to compete with South of the Border. JR's sells apparel, tobacco products, perfume, housewares, toys, etc. There are restrooms, a gas station and a Denny's nearby.
Factory Stores of America (Exit 95, within sight of the highway at 1025 Industrial Park Dr., 919-989-8757), has a Gap, Bugle Boy, Carolina Pottery, Liz Claiborne and Nike among its 60 stores.
Jones Brothers Furniture (10 minutes from I-95, at 1324 Brightleaf Blvd., about two miles north of Market Street, 919-934-4162) has a huge showroom. Actual prices are about 40 percent below those marked on tags (haggle away!); the store will ship anywhere.
Exit 20: An unassuming collection of stores in Lumberton, N.C., holds West Point Stevens Bed, Bath and Linens, T&D Golf Liquidators and more (all on Route 301, west of I-95 between exits 19 and 20). When we visited, West Point Stevens had some good deals going (example: king-size comforter for $25).
Stopover Town
Exits 40-56: While less than scenic, Fayetteville has dozens of great lodging deals, hundreds of restaurants and all the services of an almost-major city. See story, Page E5.
Lodging
Exit 173: Possibly the best lodging deal ever, Interstate Inns (Roanoke Rapids, on the east side of I-95, 252-536-4111) gave us a clean, comfortable poolside room with cable TV for $27 a night.
Exit 173: Two blocks from historic downtown Weldon, Weldon Place Inn B&B (500 Washington Ave., about two miles from I-95, 252-536-4582) has three guest rooms (one with a whirlpool), each with a private bath. Rates: $65-$75.
Exit 121: One I-95 veteran recommended Miss Betty's B&B Inn (600 W. Nash St., Wilson, about five miles from I-95, 1-800-258-2058), a quiet Victorian with 14 guest rooms, each with private bath. An interesting twist: Guests can buy antiques from Miss Betty's, or elsewhere in Wilson, dubbed the Antique Capital of North Carolina. Rates: $50-$80.
Exit 95: For a cozy stay with a full breakfast (in bed or dining room), drop by Waverly's B&B, restaurant and tavern (1321 E. Market St., Smithfield, one-half mile from I-95, 919-989-2161). Rooms have private bath and cable TV. Doubles are $69.
Exit 73: For a snooze in a large 100-year-old house, bunk at the Simply Divine B&B (309 W. Divine St., Dunn, one mile from I-95, 910-891-1103,), a four-room inn. Private baths. Rooms start at $69.
Construction
Around Lumberton, work reduces I-95 to one lane in both directions. There's also construction in Halifax County, between Exits 173 and 176 in both directions.
South Carolina
Places to Eat
Exit 160A: In Florence, two restaurants are worth a detour. Percy & Willie's is famous for its baked potato soup and salads. (You'll exit onto David McCleod Boulevard/Highway 76, heading toward Florence; it's three stoplights from I-95, on the left; 843-669-1620). For traditional South Carolina shrimp and grits, try Red Bone Alley (1903 W. Palmetto St., 843-673-0035), whose interior replicates the feeling of an outdoor cafe, with starlit skies and ficus trees. (To get there, follow David McCleod Boulevard until you hit Florence Mall on the left.)
Exit 54: Thursdays through Saturdays, Duke's Barbecue (925 Robinson Blvd., Walterboro, three miles from I-95; left on Hwy. 64 to Jefferies Street, 843-549-1446) has a $5.50 all-you-can-eat special; Duke's is known for its pork barbecue, beef stew and chicken livers.
Exit 38: At Harold's Country Club, you can fill up your tank with gas and get a meal to remember. See story, Page E8.
Attractions & Distractions
Exit 1: Billboards hawking the incandescent pleasures of South of the Border (Hamer, directly off I-95, 1-800-845-6011), a 350-acre rest stop for all intents and purposes, appear for miles, building expectation to near unquenchable levels. Other than the fact that you see so many billboards (more than 250 coming from north or south, because owner Alan Schafer actually owns a billboard company), everyone has to stop here once. The facility has everything from an amusement park to a 300-room motel and a campground. There are drugstores and ice cream stands and numerous restaurants, including an all-night diner.
Exit 68: If you're desperate for a nature break, try Carolina Heritage Outfitters' quickie canoe rides on the Edisto River (Hwy. 15, Canadys, three miles east of I-95; go two miles to Hwy. 15, turn left and go one mile, 1-800-563-5053). The ride is two miles and takes 45 minutes. Cost: $21 per person. Reservations recommended.
Exit 57: If you're interested in quality American crafts, the South Carolina Artisans Center (334 Wichman St., Walterboro, 843-549-0011) is worth the 10-minute ride. The nonprofit center represents 200 artists, whose moderately priced creations include ceramics, hand-blown glass, jewelry and woven baskets. Turn left on Hwy. 64/Bell's Highway; at the Hwy. 15 junction take a right; go left at Wichman Street.
Exit 33: Lowcountry Visitors Center & Museum (1 Lowcountry Lane, 1/2 mile east of I-95, 1-800-528-6870) features exhibits from area museums. It's also got nice bathrooms as well as the usual brochure racks.
Outlets
Exit 38: Fans of Le Creuset (Yemassee, directly off I-95, 843-589-6650), the expensive French cookware, can find discounts from 40 to 60 percent at this outlet. A two-quart saucepan that retails for $125 is $62.50 here.
Exit 33: A stand-alone factory outlet store, Sabatier (Point South, directly off I-95, 843-726-6444) has discounts of 35 percent off its high-end stainless- and carbon-steel knives.
Stopover Town
Exit 33: Beaufort, a 25-minute detour off I-95 on the Beaufort River, is a mini-Charleston, with 18th-century mansions and oaks dripping with Spanish moss. Historic attractions abound. Beaufort has a lot of fairly pricey craft boutiques and specialty shops (such as Cravings by the Sea, a gourmet food emporium where you can stock up on key lime pie nuggets) and is known for sophisticated restaurants, like the Beaufort Inn, which specializes in nouvelle interpretations of Southern classics like she-crab soup and shrimp and grits. Numerous antebellum homes have been converted to upscale B&Bs. Nearby are golf courses, beaches and kayaking tours. Information: 843-524-3163, http://www.beaufortsc.org.
Lodging
Exit 190: Magnolia Inn (601 E. Main St., two miles east of I-95; follow signs into Dillon, 843-774-0679) is a four-room Greek Revival B&B whose decor features an eclectic mix of antiques and styles, a library with floor-to-ceiling mahogany fireplace, and wraparound veranda. Rates: $70 to $85.
Exit 181: Abingdon Manor (307 Church St., Latta, six miles east of I-95, 1-888-752-5090), is just 10 minutes from the neon-lit unreality of South of the Border, but couldn't be more different. The five-bedroom Greek Revival mansion, in a district with 90 other historic residences, offers cable TV, a hot tub and flexible breakfast service if you want to hit the road early. Rates: $105 to $140.
Exit 135: The Bed and Breakfast of Sumter (6 Park Ave., Sumter, 15 miles west of I-95, 1-888-786-8372), built in 1896, is a four-room inn featuring Victorian-era furnishings located in the historic district. Rooms are $75 a night.
Construction
The state doesn't anticipate any major construction over the next six months. Note: South Carolina has a reputation for the sneakiest speed traps.
Georgia
Places to Eat
Exit 7: In downtown Brunswick (five miles from I-95), there are two great lunch places. Salvador's (205 Gloucester St., 912-264-1543) is the locals' choice for casual fare; the shrimp salad and sweet tea are specialties. Around the corner is the funky Grapevine Cafe (1519 Newcastle St., 912-265-0115), with eclectic mismatched chairs and tables; its specialties include pecan-crusted chicken breast, quiches and soups.
Exit 6: Georgia Pig (on Highway 17, 1/2 mile east of I-95, 912-264-6664) is a barbecue joint housed in a rustic wood bungalow. Inside, the spicy scented smoke, a combination of oak and hickory, is as thick as fog.
Exit 2: For carryout barbecue, Shorty's Bar-B-Q (wood-cooked pork, chicken, ribs, apple fritters) is spitting distance from the interstate (1330 Boone Ave., directly off I-95, 912-729-6005). It's tucked beside the Chevron station. Just down the road is Sonny's Real Pit Bar-B-Q (1380 E. Boone Ave., 1/4 mile from I-95, 912-264-9184), a sit-down place.
Attractions & Distractions
Exit 18: The Mighty Eighth Air Force Heri-tage Museum (175 Bourne Ave., Pooler, two miles from I-95, 912-748-8888), which commemorates the flyboys who fought the Allies' air war against the Germans in World War II, has fascinating stuff, from a mission experience in a B-17 gunner to a real Nissen hut, where daily attack briefings were held.
Exit 12: Reader Tom Beal of Glenn Dale, Md., suggests Harris Neck National Wildlife Refuge (near South Newport, six miles off of I-95, 912-832-4608), a 2,700-acre retreat with a salt marsh, freshwater swamp and hardwood forest. To get there, go south to the Newport River; after a mile, turn onto Harris Neck Road.
Exit 9: The Hofwyl-Broadfield Plantation (5556 Hwy. 17 south, Brunswick, a mile east of I-95,912-264-7333), a onetime rice plantation in operation from 1800 to 1915, is located on nearly 700 acres of marsh. There's a little museum. But the best part is its nature trails, which cut through cow pastures and wind through a fern forest. The mosquitoes, however, are relentless; be sure to take repellent. To get there, head east on Route 99. At Highway 17, go right.
Exit 6: Jekyll Island (left on Route 17, then right onto Route 520/Jekyll Island Causeway, about 12 miles from I-95, 1-800-933-2627), the southernmost of the Golden Isles that also include St. Simons Island and Sea Island, once was a wealthy retreat for Rockefellers, Morgans, Cranes and Goulds. Now the barrier island is owned by the state and operates as a park, with beautiful beaches and an abundance of wildlife. Check out the historic district, where the scions' summer mansions have been preserved.
Outlets
Exit 10: Prime Outlets at Darien (previously Magnolia Bluff Factory Shops; directly off exit, 912-437-2700) has Ralph Lauren, the Gap, Coach and Ann Taylor Loft outlets. There's also a putting green, dog run and picnic area.
Stopover Towns
Exit 17: Savannah (follow signs for I-16; go 14 miles), founded in 1733, is one of the nation's largest urban historic districts and is known for its charming town squares and antebellum mansions-turned-B&Bs. It's also the site of numerous museums, from the Juliette Gordon Low Girl Scout Center to the Ralph Mark Gilbert Civil Rights Museum to the Colonial Park Cemetery. Other activities include pub-hopping on River Street, excursion boat rides on the Savannah River and shopping along Bull Street. For traditional Southern country cuisine, try Mrs. Wilke's Boarding House; Nita's pulls in crowds wanting soul food. Information: 1-800-444-2427, http://www.savcvb.com.
Exit 2: St. Marys is the perfect antidote to highway blues. See story, Page E8.
Lodging
Exit 10: In Darien, two miles east, the Open Gates B&B (Vernon Square, 912-437-6985) is a four-room, 19th-century plantation-style inn. Rates: $66-$77.
Exit 6: The 134-room Jekyll Island Club Hotel (left on Route 17, then right onto Route 520/Jekyll Island Causeway; 11 miles from I-95, 1-800-535-9547) is a Queen Anne Victorian built in 1888, perched on the Intracoastal Waterway. It's noted for its stained glass, gourmet restaurant and casual cafe; there are numerous activities, from golf and fishing to Victorian tea and croquet. Rates start at $89.
Exit 2: The Pepto-Bismol pink, 14-room Spencer House Bed and Breakfast (200 Osborne St., St. Marys; nine miles east of I-95, 912-882-1872) is a restored 1872 Greek Revival hotel. Decor is a mix of charming antiques and comfy contemporary; some bathrooms have clawfoot soaking tubs. Verandas overlook magnolia and palm trees. Located a block from the St. Marys River, it's also in the heart of the historic business district. From the exit, turn left on Highway 40E and go nine miles; the highway turns into Osborne. Rates start at $65.
Construction
"Very little is not construction," says Teresa Scott of the Georgia Department of Transportation. From South Carolina to Exit 18, a 10-mile stretch, new lanes are being added. South of Exit 16 to Exit 14, five miles long, new lanes are being added as well. From Exit 8 to the Florida line, new lanes are being added in some areas, and resurfacing is going on in others.
Florida
Places to Eat
Exit 117: Jacksonville Landing (2 Independent Dr., 1/2 mile east of I-95) is the city's equivalent of Harborplace, guaranteeing a wide choice of grub. It's easy to find after a jump off the interstate -- and, surprise, it's just as easy to find your way back.
Exit 100: Reader Jordan Strauss of Rockville pushed us toward the Bombay Bicycle Club (8909 Baymeadows Rd., immediately west of I-95, 904-737-9555), which was cheap, fast and good. A cheeseburger and iced tea was $7.
Exit 92: Stop at a Power Exit, buy some picnic fixin's and head to Faver-Dykes State Park (directly off I-95; follow the signs). Admission ($2) is on the honor system. A winding mile-long road ends, unexpectedly, in a creekside grove.
Exit 84: J.B.'s Fish Camp (859 Pompano Ave., 10 miles east of I-95; head to the beach and then south on Atlantic Avenue, 904-427-5747) is a quintessential Florida eatery on the Indian River. Tourists and locals pack the place, and the food, served on dockside picnic tables, is terrific. A grouper sandwich with fries and iced tea was $7.
Exit 80: Judging from the number of reader tips we received, evidently everyone knew about Dixie Crossroads except us. See story, Page E5.
Exit 69: Check out breakfast at Shutters at Disney's Vero Beach Resort (Route AIA, about 11 miles off I-95, 561-234-2000). We had a frittata ($7) there and were struck by the great service, food and atmosphere.
Exit 36: The last Cracker Barrel (1250 SW 11th Way, Deerfield Beach, 1/2 mile off I-95). Time to return that book-on-tape you rented in Richmond.
Attractions & Distractions
Florida Welcome Center: Several readers told us to stop here for the free orange juice -- and it turned out to be a perfectly pleasant way to start our journey through the Sunshine State.
Exit 125: Pop in to the Anheuser-Busch Brewery Tour (111 Busch Dr., a half-mile east of I-95, 904-751-8117) for a free, pungent view of beer-making.
Exit 95-A: Golfaholics will salivate over the evolving World Golf Village (directly off I-95, 904-940-4000), which includes a resort, a golf course, the Golf Hall of Fame and a soon-to-be-completed shopping area. Hall of Fame admission: $9.
Exit 95: The Oldest Everything, St. Aug- ustine. We, of course, headed for the Alligator Farm. See story, Page E9.
Exit 91: This exit provides one of the quickest routes to the surf, at the refreshingly grubby Flagler Beach (904-439-0995). It's a three-mile shot straight to the beach -- and if you have your pooch aboard, he's welcome in the designated areas (look for the signs).
Exit 88: Scouts in the car? Be prepared to stop at The Casements (25 Riverside Dr., Ormond Beach, five miles east of
I-95 on SR 40, 904-676-3216), which has one of the largest collections of Boy Scout memorabilia.
Exit 87: To get closer to the action at the Daytona International Speedway (right off the exit; follow the signs, 904-254-2700), take one of the tram tours at Daytona USA, offered daily every half-hour from 9:30 to 6. Cost: $6. We got to ride in the tram cab, and now we're revved to actually see a race.
Exit 84: Zip into New Smyrna Beach, six miles off the highway, and thrill the kids with a ride on the beach -- one of the few spots on Florida's east coast you can do so. The cost, per vehicle, is $5 (1-800-541-9621).
Exit 80: Head to the Merritt Island National Wildlife Refuge (10 miles east on SR 406, 407-861-0667) and its Black Point Wildlife Drive, a seven-mile, 40-minute self-guided driving tour through bird-clogged marshes. If you follow the instructions to "stop frequently and quietly look and listen," you'll find the strength to get back on I-95. Free.
Exit 79: You could spend a day exploring the Kennedy Space Center and environs, but if you just want a taste, consider the U.S. Astronaut Hall of Fame (SR 405, five miles east of I-95, 407-269-6100). Admission: $13.95.
Exit 75: It's Florida's answer to South of the Border and, if possible, more disappointing. Myriad billboards hype the Ron Jon Surf Shop (4151 N. Atlantic Ave., Cocoa Beach, 16 miles east of I-95, 407-799-8888), which is just a big gift shop with lots of expensive Ron Jon merchandise.
Exit 69: The Sebastian Inlet State Recreation Area is across the Indian River, but if you want something closer to the highway, there's Mel Fisher's Treasure Museum (1322 U.S. 1, Sebastian, five miles east of I-95; go east on SR 12 to U.S. 1 north, 561-589-9875). Check out the booty Fisher & Co. dredged from sunken ships. Admission: $5.
Exit 66: The Navy's Underwater Demolition Team got its start in 1943 in Fort Pierce, and the fascinating UDT-Seal Museum (3300 N. AIA, North Hutchinson Island, nine miles east of I-95, 561-595-5845) is worth a peek for military enthusiasts. Admission: $3.25.
Exit 59: A hop off the interstate (about 20 minutes east; ask a local for directions) brings you to the 1860 Jupiter Lighthouse (561-747-8380), one of the East Coast's oldest. Sundays through Wednesdays, pay five bucks and climb to the top.
Outlets & Shopping
Exit 95: The St. Augustine Outlet Center has 95 shops, including Samsonite and Reebok, but more important, perhaps, there are two well-marked restrooms on either end of the parking lot.
Exit 91: They're scattered all over, but this was the first Russell Stover Outlet (98 Flagler Plaza Dr., Palm Coast) we found in Florida. Two pounds of perfectly good chocolate only cost us four bucks.
Exit 72: We had a great time at the Super Flea, held directly west of I-95 Fridays and Saturdays from 10 to 4. Hundreds of vendors peddle everything from eyeglasses to velvet paintings. (Similar fleas take place at Exits 87 and 128).
Exit 68: The Prime Outlets at Vero Beach is your last shot at a major outlet center before you hit West Palm Beach and Miami. Stores include Anne Klein, Farberware and Lenox.
Stopover Towns
Exit 129: The odd confluence of commerce (factories and railroad tracks) and comfort (B&Bs and luxury hotels) on Amelia Island may seem off-putting at first, but you get used to it. You can golf, swim, camp and ride horseback. You can wander around the 50-block Victorian National Historic District. Or you can find a rocker, as we did, and do nothing. Information: 1-800-2-AMELIA, http://www.ameliaisland.org.
Exit 95: Founded in 1565, St. Augustine is the country's oldest city, and it's just about impossible to see everything in a day. You may be struck, as we were, by the weird blend of tawdriness and history, but you won't be bored. If the Oldest House and Oldest Store don't interest you, there's always the Fountain of Youth and Ripley's Believe It or Not! Museum. Information: 1-800-653-2489, http://www.oldcity.com.
Exit 84: New Smyrna Beach is the nicest town we never knew existed. The home of a thriving artists' colony, it features funky main strips, lots of restaurants and a simple layout. Hotels (all but one privately owned) and condo properties straddle the beach, but closer into town and across the river, smaller motels and four B&Bs offer cheap-ish accommodations. Information: 1-800-541-9621, http://www.new-smyrna-beach.com.
Exits 69-68: With Miami looming ahead, Vero Beach is a great spot to catch your breath and see how the other half lives. Humiston Beach Park sits ocean-side in the charming downtown, which contains dozens of high-end boutiques and fancy restaurants. Still, scattered amid the poshness are mom-and-pop stores, casual dining spots and family-run hotels. Information: 561-567-3491, http://www.vero-beach.fl.us/chamber.
Lodging
Exit 129: Stay in one of two Amelia Island lighthouses (Route AIA, north and south ends of the island; 20 minutes from I-95, 904-261-4148). The lighthouses, which sit incongruously amid neighboring houses, can sleep up to six and cost $166 per night (reserve early!).
The nearby Elizabeth Pointe Lodge (98 S. Fletcher Ave./AIA, 20 minutes from I-95, 1-800-772-3359) is a waterfront inn with all the charm of a B&B but none of the fustiness. Its 24 rooms have TVs, air conditioning, flowers and huge soaking tubs to soothe your back after a day of 95-ing. Rates start at $115, including a buffet breakfast.
Exit 112: If you're stuck in Jacksonville, the St. John's House B&B (1718 Osceola St., 1/2 mile from I-95, 904-384-3724) sits in the quiet Riverside neighborhood. Rates start at $60 and include a full breakfast.
Exit 108: San Marco Point House (1709 River Rd., 1/2 mile from I-95; go right onto San Marco Boulevard, then right onto Riviera, 904-396-1448) is in San Marco, a well-established Jacksonville neighborhood. Nearby are restaurants, theaters and a jogging trail. Rates start at $75, including breakfast.
Exit 87: The Live Oak Inn B&B (444-448 S. Beach St., Daytona, five miles east of I-95, 1-800-881-4667) has 14 rooms, all with phones and baths. Except on race weekends, rooms usually are available for last-minute stops. (Call ahead to be safe.) Rates start at $80, including breakfast.
Feeling adventurous? The Travelers Inn (735 N. Atlantic Ave., eight miles east of I-95, 1-800-417-6466) on the main drag might be the spot for you. It offers 21 air-brushed themed rooms, including the Elvis Room, featuring a wall-size portrait of the King. Rates start at $39 double.
Exit 84: The Little River Inn (532 N. Riverside Dr., New Smyrna Beach, five miles east of I-95, 904-424-0100) overlooks the Indian River. Owner Joyce MacLean reports that 95ers frequently pop in, but she'll send you to another inn if she's full. Rates start at $79, with breakfast.
The Riverview Hotel (103 Flagler Ave., six miles east of I-95, 1-800-945-7416) is a restored 1885 beauty with lovely rooms and a neat location: next to a drawbridge (which the kids will love watching). Rates start at $80, with breakfast.
Exit 75: The beachfront Wakulla Motel (3550 N. A1A, Cocoa Beach, 13 miles east of I-95, a 25-minute drive, 1-800-992-5852) has large suites with two bedrooms and a kitchen. (For some peace, get a second-floor room away from the pool.) Rates start at $84.
Exit 69: Locals seem proud of Disney's Vero Beach Resort -- yes, that Disney. The resort (Route A1A, Vero Beach, about 11 miles off I-95, 561-234-2000 for same-night reservations) aims to pamper, with snazzy restaurants and rooms, villas and cottages. Rates start at $140.
Exit 68: On the other hand, you can (should?) skip Disney and head for the self-described "least expensive motel on the beach." The charming all-efficiency Sea Turtle Inn (835 Azalea Lane, Vero Beach, 10 miles east of I-95, 561-234-0788) sits in the middle of town. Rates start at $49 double.
Construction
There are surprisingly few trouble spots. Beware of a massive project in downtown Jacksonville near Exit 112; a drawbridge is being replaced by a high-rise bridge. Thirty-one miles of the interstate are being resurfaced from the Indian County Line north to Exit 73, though there are no lane closures from 3:30 to 6:30 p.m. Around West Palm Beach, major improvements are being made to two stretches -- we ran into trouble near Exits 49 and 50 and Exits 55 and 56. For updates, check out http://www.dot.state.fl.us.
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